Brown Stock

A flavorful liquid made from caramelized beef, veal, chicken, or game bones and vegetables, simmered in water with seasonings for 6-8 hours (3-4 hours for chicken).  This stock should be a rich dark color, highly aromatic, and gelatinous when finished. The standard ratio of ingredients for brown stock is 8 pounds (3.6kg) of beef, veal, poultry, or game bones, 6 quarts (5.7L) of cold water, 1 pound of mirepoix (454g), and a sachet d’épices or bouquet garni per gallon of finished stock.

Yield:  1 gallon (3.8L)

 
WEIGHTS AND MEASURES          INGREDIENTS
8 pounds (3.6kg)                                 beef, veal, chicken or game bones
2 fluid ounces (59ml)                          vegetable oil
6 quarts (5.7L)                                                cold water
4 ounces (113g)                                   tomato paste
 
Mirepoix
8 ounces (227g)                                   onions, large dice
4 ounces (113g)                                   carrots, large dice
4 ounces (113g)                                   celery, large dice
 
Sachet d’épices
½ teaspoon (2ml)                                thyme leaves
½ teaspoon (2ml)                                black peppercorns, cracked
3-4stems                                             parsley
1 clove                                                 garlic, crushed
Cooking/Holding

1. Coat the bones with the oil and roast them in a pre-heated 400ºF (204.4ºC) oven, stirring frequently until well browned.
2. Place the bones in a 10-quart (9.5L) stockpot and cover with the cold water.  Bring to a simmer.
3. Skim the surface, removing and discarding any impurities (depouillage).  Do not allow the simmering stock to fall below a temperature of 140ºF (60ºC).
4. While the stock comes to a simmer, heat the roasting pan to clarify the fat.  Drain the fat used to brown the bones and reserve.
5. Deglaze the roasting pan with 1-cup (237ml) of the liquid from the stockpot. After the roasting pan is deglazed, add the remaining liquid back to the simmering stock.
6. Lightly coat the onions, celery, and carrots with some of the reserved fat, place in the roasting pan and brown thoroughly in a 400ºF (204.4ºC) oven, stirring regularly.
7. Combine the tomato paste with the vegetables and place back in the oven.  Continue to roast the vegetables, stirring regularly until the tomato paste starts to brown (pincé).
8. Add the roasted, browned vegetables to the simmering stock.
9. Deglaze the roasting pan again with ½-cup (118ml) of the liquid from the stockpot and add back to the simmering stock.
10. Place the thyme, peppercorns, parsley, and garlic in a small square of cheesecloth to create the sachet d’épices, tie with twine, and add to the simmering stock.
11. Continue to simmer gently for 6-8 hours (3-4 hours for chicken).  Skim the surface regularly discarding the impurities.  Do not allow the simmering stock to fall below a temperature of 140ºF (60ºC).
12. Add additional water as needed to keep the bones from becoming exposed as the stock evaporates.
13. Degrease (degraisse) the stock and strain through several layers of cheesecloth that have been rinsed in cold water and placed in a conical strainer.
14. Hold the stock at 140ºF (60ºC) or higher.

Cooling/Storing

1. Refer to the earlier section on Industry Accepted Cooling Procedures for Stocks. 

Chef Tips
For any type of brown stock be very careful to thoroughly and evenly brown the bones and mirepoix.  Remember; browned and burnt bones are different and are only separated by a brief amount of time.

Court Bouillon

Court Bouillon is generally used to poach fish or vegetables. Vegetables and seasonings are simmered with wine, vinegar, and/or lemon juice.

Yield:  1 gallon (3.8L)

WEIGHTS AND MEASURES          INGREDIENTS
1 gallon (3.79L)                                   cold water
3 fluid ounces (89ml)                          white wine vinegar
3 fluid ounces (89ml)                          white wine, dry
2 fluid ounces (59ml)                          lemon juice
2 ounces (57g)                                     salt
12 ounces (340g)                                 onions, large dice
6 ounces (170g)                                   carrots, large dice
6 ounces (170g)                                   celery, large dice
½ teaspoon (2ml)                                thyme, leaves
1 teaspoon (5ml)                                 black peppercorns, crushed
4                                                          bay leaves
6-8 stems                                            parsley
2-3                                                       leeks, green portion, 2-inch pieces
Cooking/Holding

1. Combine all ingredients and bring to a boil in a large saucepot.
2. Reduce the heat to a simmer and continue to simmer for 45 minutes.
3. Strain the stock through several layers of cheesecloth that has been rinsed in cold water and placed in a conical strainer.
4. Hold the stock at 140º (60ºC) or above.

Cooling/Storing

1. Refer to the earlier section on Industry Accepted Cooling Procedures for Stocks.

Fish Fumet

A flavorful liquid made from fish or shellfish bones sautéed with vegetables, wine, and lemon juice and simmered in water and seasonings for approximately 30-45 minutes.  Fish fumet should be highly aromatic, colorless, and is typically stronger in flavor than fish stock.

Yield:  1 gallon (3.8L)

WEIGHTS AND MEASURES          INGREDIENTS
11 pounds (5kg)                                  fish bones
4 fluid ounces (118ml)                        vegetable oil
4 ounces (113g)                                   celery, large dice
8 ounces (227g)                                   onions, large dice
4 ounces (113g)                                   leeks, green portion, chopped
10 ounces (283g)                                 mushroom stems
1 gallon (3.79L)                                   cold water
1 quart (946ml)                                   white wine, dry
 
Sachet d’épices
1                                                          celery stalk, 2-inch pieces
½ teaspoon (2ml)                                thyme, leaves
1                                                          bay leaf
3-4 stems                                            parsley stems
2-3                                                       leeks, green portion, 2-inch pieces
Cooking/Holding

1. Rinse the fish bones thoroughly under cold running water.
2. Heat the oil in a large sautoir pan.  Add the bones, diced celery, onions, and chopped leeks.
3. Sweat the bones and the vegetables for 6-8 minutes or until the onions become translucent.
4. Add the mushroom stems, water, and vermouth.
5. Place the ingredients for the sachet d’épices in a small square of cheesecloth, tie with twine, and add to the liquid.
6. Slowly bring the fumet to a gentle simmer and continue to simmer for 30-45 minutes while regularly skimming the surface, removing and discarding any impurities.  Do not allow the simmering stock to fall below a temperature of 140ºF (60ºC).
7. Strain the stock through several layers of cheesecloth that have been rinsed in cold water and placed in a conical strainer.
8. Hold the stock at 140º (60ºC) or above.

Cooling/Storing

1. Refer to the earlier section on Industry Accepted Cooling Procedures for Stocks.

Chef Tips

When preparing a fish fumet, try using dry vermouth instead of white wine.  Many professional chefs prefer vermouth for the additional sweetness and lighter flavor it provides.

Fish Stock

A flavorful liquid made from fish or shellfish bones simmered with vegetables in water and seasonings for approximately 30 – 45 minutes.  Good quality fish stock should be highly aromatic and colorless.  The standard ratio of ingredients used to prepare fish or shellfish stock is 11 pounds (5kg) of bones or shells, 5 quarts (4.7L) of cold water, 1 pound of mirepoix (454g), and a sachet d’épices or bouquet garni per gallon of finished stock.

Yield:  1 gallon (3.8L)

WEIGHTS AND MEASURES          INGREDIENTS
11 pounds (5kg)                                  fish bones
5 quarts (4.7L)                                                cold water
4 ounces (113g)                                   celery, large dice
8 ounces (227g)                                   onions, large dice
4 ounces (113g)                                   leeks, green portion, chopped
10 ounces (283g)                                 mushroom stems
 
Sachet d’épices
½ teaspoon (2ml)                                thyme leaves
¼ teaspoon (1ml)                                black peppercorns, crushed
1                                                          bay leaf
3-4 stems                                            parsley stems
2-3                                                       leeks, green portion, 2-inch pieces
Cooking/Holding

1. Rinse the fish bones thoroughly under cold running water.
2. In a small stockpot, add the bones, diced celery, onions, chopped leeks, mushroom stems to 5 quarts of water.
3. Place the ingredients for the sachet d’épices in a small square of cheesecloth, tie with twine, and add to the liquid.
4. Slowly bring the stock to a gentle simmer and continue to simmer for 30-45 minutes while regularly skimming the surface, removing and discarding any impurities.  Do not allow the simmering stock to fall below a temperature of 140ºF (60ºC).
5. Strain the stock through several layers of cheesecloth that have been rinsed in cold water and placed in a conical strainer.
6. Hold the stock at 140º (60ºC) or above.

Cooling/Storing

1. Refer to the earlier section on Industry Accepted Cooling Procedures for Stocks.

Vegetable Stock

A flavorful liquid made from vegetables that are simmered in water, wine, and seasonings for approximately 45 minutes.  The resulting liquid should be clear, with a light color, and highly aromatic. Two or three vegetables in addition to mirepoix, will produce better results than a vegetable stock made with a larger variety of vegetables.
 Yield:  1 gallon (3.8L)
WEIGHTS AND MEASURES          INGREDIENTS
2 fluid ounces (59ml)                          vegetable oil
8 ounces (227g)                                   leeks, white and green, chopped
2 ounces (57g)                                     turnips, small dice
2 ounces (57g)                                     tomatoes, diced
4 cloves                                               garlic, chopped
1 gallon (3.79L)                                   cold water
8 fluid ounces (237ml)                        white wine, dry
 
Mirepoix
1 pound (454g)                                   onions, small dice
8 ounces (227g)                                   carrots, small dice
8 ounces (227g)                                   celery, small dice
 
Sachet d’épices
½ teaspoon (2ml)                                thyme, leaves
1                                                          bay leaf
6-8 stems                                            parsley
¼ teaspoon (1ml)                                black peppercorns, crushed
Cooking/Holding

1. Heat the oil in a medium saucepot.
2. Sweat the mirepoix, leeks, turnips, tomatoes, and garlic until the onions become translucent, approximately 8-10 minutes.
3. Add the water and wine.
4. Place the sachet d’épices ingredients in a small square of cheesecloth, tie with twine, and add to the liquid.
5. Slowly bring the stock to a gentle simmer and continue to simmer for 45 minutes while regularly skimming the surface, removing and discarding any impurities.  Do not allow the simmering stock to fall below a temperature of 140ºF (60ºC).
6. Strain the stock through several layers of cheesecloth that have been rinsed in cold water and placed in a conical strainer.
7. Hold the stock at 140º (60ºC) or above.

Cooling/Storing

1. Refer to the earlier section on Industry Accepted Cooling Procedures for Stocks.

Chef Tips 
Any type of vegetables can be used for vegetable stock, but the number of vegetable types in a single stock should be limited. Too many different vegetables can create a somewhat confusing flavor.  The selection of vegetables should compliment the intended purpose or finished product of the stock.  If the vegetable stock is being used to make a mushroom sauce for example, mushroom stems would be an excellent choice as one of the vegetable flavors to include in the stock.  Fennel, however, would not be appropriate because its strong flavor would overpower the taste of the mushrooms.

White Stock

White stock is a flavorful liquid made from beef, veal, or chicken bones simmered in water with vegetables and seasonings for 6-8 hours (3-5 hours for chicken bones).  The resulting liquid should be clear and without color, highly aromatic, and gelatinous.  For a neutral flavor, veal bones are suggested. The standard ratio of ingredients used to prepare white stock is 8 pounds (3.6kg) of beef, veal, or poultry bones, 6 quarts (5.7L) of cold water, 1 pound (454g) of mirepoix, and a sachet d’épices or bouquet garni per gallon of finished stock.
Yield:  1 gallon (3.8L) 
WEIGHTS AND MEASURES          INGREDIENTS
8 pounds (3.6kg)                                 beef, veal or chicken bones
6 quarts (5.7L)                                                cold water
Mirepoix
8 ounces (227g)                                   onions, large dice
4 ounces (113g)                                   carrots, large dice
4 ounces (113g)                                   celery, large dice
 
Sachet d’épices
½ teaspoon (2ml)                                thyme leaves
½ teaspoon (2ml)                                black peppercorns, cracked
3-4 stems                                            parsley
1 clove                                                 garlic, crushed
Cooking/Holding

1. Bring a 10-quart (9.5L) stockpot with the water to a boil.  Place the bones in the stockpot, bring back to a boil, and then immediately remove from the heat.
2. Strain the bones, discard the liquid, and rinse the bones under cold running water.
3. Clean the stockpot, add the rinsed bones to (how much?) water, bring to a boil, and simmer over low heat.
4. Skim the surface removing and discarding any impurities.  Simmer the stock for 6-8 hours (3-4 hours for chicken bones).  Continue to skim the surface regularly, discarding the impurities.  Do not allow the simmering stock to fall below a temperature of 140ºF (60ºC).
5. Add the onions, celery, and carrots.
6. Place the sachet d’épices ingredients in a small square of cheesecloth, tie with twine, and add to the simmering stock.
7. Continue to simmer gently for an additional hour.  Do not allow the simmering stock to fall below a temperature of 140ºF (60ºC).
8. Strain the stock through several layers of cheesecloth that have been rinsed in cold water and placed in a conical strainer.
9. Hold the stock at 140º (60ºC) or above.

Cooling/Storing

1. Refer to the earlier section on Industry Accepted Cooling Procedures for Stocks.

Chef Tips
Blanching the bones before making a white stock is an optional step.  Chefs today disagree whether or not this is necessary due to the loss of flavor during the blanching process.  Although the process will take away a little flavor from the resulting product, blanching the bones will give the finished stock extra clarity. If the bones are very fresh, blanching is not necessary as extremely fresh bones will provide both maximum flavor and clarity to stocks made with them.  If the bones are frozen or a few days old, they should be blanched.  If you choose to blanch the bones, do so with water that is boiling so that as little flavor as possible will be lost. 

Béchamel Sauce

One of the 5 grand sauces.  Béchamel sauce is a rich, creamy, and silky smooth sauce made by thickening scalded milk with white roux and seasoning it with onions, cloves, and nutmeg.  It is used primarily for egg and vegetable dishes. Béchamel sauce was created by Louis de Béchameil of France in the mid-1600’s and was originally made by adding cream to a thick veal velouté sauce. Today, béchamel sauce is not as popular as it was many years ago because of its rich and heavy properties; however, is still one of the grand sauces as many small and smaller sauces are derived from it. Béchamel sauce is used in many American regional preparations.

Yield:  1 gallon (3.8L)

 
WEIGHTS AND MEASURES          INGREDIENTS
½                                                         onion, peeled
1                                                          bay leaf
3                                                          cloves
1 gallon (3.8L)                         milk
8 ounces (227g)                                   butter, clarified
8 ounces (227g)                                   all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon (5ml)                                 nutmeg, ground
to taste                                                            salt
to taste                                                            white pepper, ground
1 ounce (28g)                                      butter
Cooking/Holding

1. Prepare an onion piqué by attaching one bay leaf to a half of a peeled onion with three whole cloves.
2. Place the milk in a heavy-bottom saucepot and bring to a boil.  Reduce the heat to a simmer and add the onion piqué.
3. Simmer the milk for 20 minutes over low heat.  Do not allow the simmering milk to fall below a temperature of 140ºF (60ºC).
4. Melt the clarified butter in a separate saucepot and blend in the flour to make a roux.
5. Cook the roux over low heat while stirring frequently for 2-4 minutes.  Do not let the roux brown.
6. Remove the onion piqué from the simmering milk.  Slowly blend the milk into the roux, stirring constantly.  Bring to a boil over medium-high heat
7. Turn the heat down to low.  Season the sauce to taste with nutmeg, salt, and white pepper.
8. Simmer the béchamel sauce for an additional 30 minutes.  Do not allow the simmering milk to fall below a temperature of 140ºF (60ºC).
9. Strain the through a piece of pre-rinsed cheesecloth or a chinois strainer into a bain marie.
10. Place butter on top of the sauce to prevent a skin from forming.
11. Hold the sauce at 140º (60ºC) or above.

Cooling/Storing

1. Refer to the earlier section on Industry Accepted Cooling Procedures for Stocks.

Chef Tips
When making a béchamel sauce, do not allow the flavors from the onions, cloves, and nutmeg to overpower the sauce.  The primary flavor of a properly made béchamel sauce should be milk.  When finished the sauce should have the color of heavy cream and a very smooth texture.  The consistency of a well-made béchamel should be thick enough to lightly coat food products, but not so thick that it tastes starchy.
Mornay Sauce: Stir in 1-pound (454g) of grated Gruyère cheese and 4-ounces (113g) of grated Parmesan cheese to 1-gallon (3.8L) of béchamel sauce. Adjust the consistency of the sauce as desired with heavy cream.

Nantua Sauce: Stir in 1-pint (473ml) of hot heavy cream and 24-ounces (680g) of crayfish butter (see recipe) to 1-gallon (3.8L) of béchamel sauce. Adjust the color of the sauce as desired with paprika.  Garnish the sauce with 1-pound (454g) of small diced crayfish meat.

Soubise Sauce: Sweat 4-pounds (1.8kg) of diced onions in 4-ounces (113g) of butter until the onions become translucent.  Do not brown the onions. Add the onions to 1-gallon (3.8L) of béchamel sauce and simmer until the onions are thoroughly cooked. Strain the sauce through a fine sieve or chinois strainer.

Cream Sauce: Stir in 1-quart (946ml) of hot heavy cream and ¼ teaspoon (1ml) of lemon juice to 1- gallon (3.8L) of béchamel sauce.

Cheddar Sauce: Stir in 2-pounds (907g) of grated cheddar cheese and 1 tablespoon (15ml) of dry mustard to 1- gallon (3.8L) of béchamel sauce.  Season the sauce to taste with Worcestershire sauce.  When adding cheddar cheese to a hot liquid, make sure the liquid is between 140ºF (60ºC) and 185ºF (85ºC).  If the temperature of the liquid is too hot, the cheese will not melt but curdle instead.

Glace de Viande

Yield:  1 cup (237ml)

 
WEIGHTS AND MEASURES          INGREDIENTS
4 quarts (3.8L)                                                brown stock
Cooking/Holding

1. Place the brown stock in a large heavy-bottom saucepot.
2. Bring the liquid to a boil and reduce the heat to a simmer.
3. Simmer the liquid over low heat until it has reduced in volume to 1 cup.  Do not allow the simmering stock to fall below a temperature of 140ºF (60ºC).
4. Frequently skim the scum from the surface.
5. As the sauce reduces in volume, transfer it to progressively smaller saucepots, straining through a piece of pre-rinsed cheesecloth or a chinois strainer.
6. Once the glace has finally reduced to approximately 1 cup (237ml), strain through a piece of pre-rinsed cheesecloth or a chinois strainer for the final time and cool.

Cooling/Storing

1. Refer to the earlier section on Industry Accepted Cooling Procedures for Stocks.

 

Other Varieties of Glace:
Glace de Volaille: Substitute brown chicken stock for the beef stock called for in this recipe.
Glace de Poisson: Substitute fish stock for the beef stock called for in this recipe.

Brown Sauce

One of the five grand sauces.  Brown sauce is also referred to as Espagnole sauce.  Brown sauce is made by thickening a rich brown stock with a brown roux and flavoring the sauce with tomato puree and caramelized mirepoix.  The most frequently made derivative of brown sauce is demi glace sauce, from which a variety of smaller sauces are made.

Yield:  1 gallon (3.8L)

 
WEIGHTS AND MEASURES          INGREDIENTS
1 pound (454g)                                   onions, medium dice
½ pound (227g)                                  celery, medium dice
½ pound (227g)                                  carrots, medium dice
8 ounces (227g)                                   butter
8 ounces (227g)                                   all-purpose flour
5 quarts (4.7L)                                                brown stock, cold
8 ounces (227g)                                   tomato puree
1                                                          bay leaf
½ teaspoon (2ml)                                thyme, dried
¼ teaspoon (2ml)                                black peppercorns, crushed
8 stems                                                parsley
to taste                                                            salt
to taste                                                white pepper, ground
1 ounce (28g)                                      butter
Cooking/Holding

1. Sauté the onions, celery, and carrots in the butter until thoroughly caramelized.
2. Stir in the flour and cook for 12-15 minutes over low heat to make a brown roux.
3. Gradually add the cold stock and tomato puree to the roux, whisking constantly to prevent lumps from forming.
4. Bring to a boil and reduce the heat to a simmer.
5. Make a sachet d’épices by tying the bay leaf, thyme, peppercorns, and parsley stems in a small piece of cheesecloth.  Add to the simmering liquid.
6. Simmer for 1-1½ hours allowing the sauce to reduce slightly.  Skim the surface of the sauce regularly to remove any impurities that rise to the surface.  Do not allow the simmering sauce to fall below a temperature of 140ºF (60ºC).
7. Simmer gently for 45-60 minutes.  Do not allow the simmering sauce to fall below a temperature of 140ºF (60ºC).
8. Season to taste with salt and white pepper.
9. Strain through pre-rinsed cheesecloth or a chinois strainer into a bain marie.
10. Place butter on top of the sauce to prevent a skin from forming.
11. Hold the sauce at 140º (60ºC) or above.

Cooling/Storing

1. Refer to the earlier section on Industry Accepted Cooling Procedures for Stocks. 

Chef Tips
Some professionals believe the celery should not be caramelized with the onions and carrots.  Celery is mainly water and fiber.  When it begins to cook the moisture from the vegetable is released into the pan, which inhibits the caramelization of the onions and carrots.  If you choose this school of thought, add the chopped celery to the stock with the sachet d’épices once the stock begins to simmer.
It is sometimes difficult for anyone other than experienced sauce makers to determine the exact quantity of brown roux needed to properly thicken a brown sauce.  As roux continues to cook, its thickening power diminishes. Therefore, a larger quantity of brown roux is needed to achieve the same consistency as lesser amounts of blond or white roux.  A general rule of thumb is that better results are attained when thickening a sauce rather than thinning after adding too much roux.  If you are unsure as to the quantity of brown roux to use, add the roux in stages to ensure that you do not over-thicken your sauce.
 

Modern Jus Lié

Yield:  1 quart (946ml)

 
WEIGHTS AND MEASURES          INGREDIENTS
4 quarts (3.8L)                                                brown stock
to taste                                                            salt
to taste                                                            white pepper, ground
 
Cooking/Holding

1. Place the brown stock in a large heavy-bottom saucepot.
2. Bring the liquid to a boil and reduce the heat to a simmer.
3. Simmer until the liquid has reduced in volume by ½-¾ or until the desired consistency is reached.  Do not allow the simmering stock to fall below a temperature of 140ºF (60ºC).
4. Season the sauce to taste with salt and white pepper.

Cooling/Storing

1. Refer to the earlier section on Industry Accepted Cooling Procedures for Stocks. 

Chef Tips – Jus Lié
A well-made jus lié should be very rich in flavor with a dark brown, shiny color.  Although jus lié is not as thick as a demi glace sauce, it should be thick enough to coat food products lightly.  A simple rule to apply whether making jus lié or demi glace is that the sauce can only be as good as the stock used to make it.  High quality stocks are essential ingredients for either jus lié or demi glace.
The quicker, less costly, traditional starch-thickened method for jus lié follows.  Bring the brown stock to a boil.  For each quart of brown stock, dissolve 2 ounces (57g) of cornstarch or arrowroot in 4 fluid ounces (118ml) of cold water and blend the mixture into the boiling stock.  Reduce the heat to low and let simmer for 10-15 minutes before serving.  Jus lié made by the reduction technique is usually considered better tasting and of higher quality than the starch-thickened method; however, both techniques are frequently used.
 

Demi Glace Sauce

Yield:  1 gallon (3.8L)

 
WEIGHTS AND MEASURES          INGREDIENTS
4 quarts (3.8L)                                                brown stock
4 quarts (3.8L)                                                brown sauce
to taste                                                            salt
to taste                                                            white pepper, ground
1 ounce (28g)                                      butter
Cooking/Holding

1. Combine the brown stock and brown sauce together in a large heavy-bottom stockpot.
2. Bring the liquid to a boil and reduce the heat to a simmer.
3. Simmer until the liquid has reduced in volume by ½.  Do not allow the simmering sauce to fall below a temperature of 140ºF (60ºC).
4. Season to taste with salt and white pepper.
5. Strain through a piece of pre-rinsed cheesecloth or a chinois strainer into a bain marie.
6. Place butter on top of the sauce to prevent a skin from forming.
7. Hold the sauce at 140º (60ºC) or above.

Cooling/Storing

1. Refer to the earlier section on Industry Accepted Cooling Procedures for Stocks. 

Chef Tips
A well-made demi glace sauce is very smooth, free of lumps, and shiny dark-brown in color.  The flavor should be predominantly beef, veal, or chicken depending upon the type of bones used.  It should be free of a starchy taste.  The finished sauce should be thick enough to coat food products, but not heavy or pasty.
A simple rule to apply whether making demi glace or jus lié, is that the sauce can only be as good as the stock used to make it.  A high quality stock is an essential ingredient for either demi glace or jus lié.
Many professionals believe that the brown stock should be reduced by at least ¹/₃ before combining with the brown sauce to make a demi glace sauce and then to reduce the combined sauce and stock to the desired consistency.  This is done to prevent the brown roux used to make the brown sauce from breaking down during prolonged heat exposure and subsequently losing its thickening power.
Small Sauces Derived from Brown Sauce, Jus Lié or Demi Glace:

Chasseur Sauce: Sauté 2-ounces (57g) of minced shallots in 2-ounces (57g) of butter until the shallots become translucent.  Add 1-pound (454g) of cleaned and sliced wild mushrooms and continue to sauté until the mushrooms are thoroughly cooked.  Add 1-quart (946ml) of dry white wine and reduce the liquid by ¾ its volume over medium-high heat.  Add the mushroom mixture to 1-gallon (3.8L) of brown, jus lié or demi glace sauce. Garnish the sauce with 1½-pounds (680g) of tomato concassée and ¼ cup (59ml) of chopped parsley. This sauce is frequently referred to as “hunter’s sauce.”  If wild mushrooms are not available, button mushrooms make an appropriate substitute.

Madeira Sauce: Reduce 1-gallon (3.8L) of brown, jus lié or demi glace sauce for approximately 20 minutes over medium-low heat.  Stir in 1-pint (473ml) of Madeira wine.

Smaller Sauces Derived from Madeira Sauce:
Périgourdine Sauce: Add 4-ounces (113g) of sliced black truffles to 1-gallon (3.8L) of Madeira sauce. Typically if the truffles are diced, the sauce is referred to as Périgueux sauce.

Robert Sauce: Sauté 2-pounds (907g) of chopped onions in 4-ounces (113g) of butter until the onions become translucent. Add 1-quart (946ml) of dry white wine and reduce the liquid by ²/₃’s its volume over medium-high heat.  Add the onion mixture to 1-gallon (3.8L) of brown, jus lié or demi glace sauce.  Simmer the sauce for approximately 10 minutes over medium-low heat.  Strain the sauce through a chinois before using.

Smaller Sauces Derived from Robert Sauce:
Charcutière Sauce: Add 4-ounces (113g) of sliced cornichons to 1-gallon (3.8L) of Robert sauce.  If cornichons are not available, substitute sour pickles.

Marchand de Vin Sauce: Combine 8-ounces (227g) of diced shallots with 1-quart (946ml) of dry red wine in a medium saucepot and reduce the volume of liquid by ²/₃ over medium high heat. Add the shallot mixture to 1-gallon (3.8L) of brown, jus lié or demi glace sauce.  Simmer the sauce for approximately 20 minutes over medium-low heat.  Strain the sauce through a chinois before using.

Smaller Sauces Derived from Marchand de Vin Sauce:
Bordelaise Sauce: Add 2-quarts (1.9L) of dry red wine, 8-ounces (227g) of chopped shallots, 2 bay leaves, 2 sprigs of thyme, 1-teaspoon (5ml) crushed black peppercorns that have been combined and reduced over medium-high heat by ¾’s of its volume to 1-gallon (3.8L) of Marchand de Vin sauce.  The sauce is then strained and simmered over low heat for 30 minutes.  Stir in 8-ounces (227g) of whole butter and garnish with 1-pound (454g) of poached, diced beef marrow.

Poivrade Sauce: Sweat 24-ounces (680g) chopped onions, 12-ounces (340g) chopped celery, and 12-ounces (340g) peeled and chopped carrots in 4-fluid ounces (118ml) of vegetable oil until the onions become translucent.  Add 2 bay leaves, 2 sprigs of thyme, 8 parsley stems, 2-quarts (1.9L) of white wine vinegar and 1-pint (473ml) of dry white wine.  Reduce the volume of liquid by ½ over medium high heat.  Stir the vegetable and liquid mixture into 1-gallon (3.8L) of brown, jus lié or demi glace sauce.  Simmer over low heat for approximately 60 minutes. Strain the sauce through a chinois before using.

Smaller Sauces Derived from Poivrade Sauce:
Chevreuil Sauce: Made the same way as the poivrade sauce except that 24-ounces (680g) of game trimmings are added and cooked with the onions, celery, and carrots.  Chevreuil sauce is finished with 1-pint (473ml) of dry red wine and given a little extra seasoning with cayenne pepper.  For a lighter flavor, bacon or salt pork can be substituted for the game trimmings.

Hollandaise Sauce

One of the 5 grand sauces.  Hollandaise sauce is a rich, hot emulsion sauce made from egg yolks and butter flavored with vinegar and lemon juice.  A variety of small sauces are made from hollandaise sauce.  The most common derivative of hollandaise is béarnaise sauce.

Yield:  1 quart (946ml)

WEIGHTS AND MEASURES          INGREDIENTS
                        Reduction:
1 teaspoon (5ml)                                 black peppercorns
4 tablespoons (59ml)                          water, cold
2 tablespoons (30ml)                          distilled vinegar
½ teaspoon (2ml)                                salt
 
                        Hollandaise Sauce:
5                                                          egg yolks
18 fluid ounces (532ml)                      butter, clarified, warm (not hot)
to taste                                                            lemon juice
to taste                                                            salt
Cooking

1. Crack the peppercorns in the bottom of a saucepan.
2. Add the water, vinegar, and first quantity of salt.  Bring to a boil and reduce the volume of liquid by ²/₃.  Remove from the heat and reserve until needed.
3. Separate the egg yolks into a stainless steel bowl.  Strain the liquid from the reduction into the bowl with the egg yolks.
4. Cook over a double boiler, while whisking constantly and vigorously.  Cook the egg yolks until the temperature of the mixture reaches a minimum of 150ºF (65.6ºC).  This process will only take 3-5 minutes.  Typically the egg mixture will thin out and then start to thicken.  At 160ºF (71.1ºC) the egg mixture will be a nappé consistency (be careful to stir constantly so the eggs will not congeal).
5. Once the egg yolks are cooked, immediately remove the bowl from the double boiler.
6. Whisk in the warm clarified butter, one ounce at a time, with a vigorous back and forth motion, in order to incorporate as much air as possible (make sure the clarified butter is warm, as using hot butter will cause the emulsion to break down).
7. Season the sauce to taste with lemon juice and salt.
8. If the sauce is too thick, adjust the consistency with a little warm water.
9. If the sauce appears to have small pieces of congealed egg in it, strain the hollandaise through a chinois before using.

Serving/Holding

1. Hold the sauce at 140ºF (60ºC) or above stirring from time to time. (an insulated thermos is an excellent storage vessel for hollandaise sauce)

Cooling/Storing

1. Due to potential food safety hazards, it is recommended that hollandaise sauce be discarded after four hours.  Do not attempt to store or reuse hollandaise sauce.

Chef Tips
A well-made hollandaise sauce should be very smooth and free of lumps.  The flavor should be primarily of butter, but not so much that it overpowers the egg and lemon flavors.  The consistency of hollandaise should not be heavy, but rather light and fluffy.
Many professionals choose to use softened whole butter instead of clarified butter in their hollandaise sauce because whole butter has much more flavor.  If using whole butter, one must make sure that the initial reduction is cooked until almost dry because whole butter contains a lot of natural moisture, which can lead to a thinner sauce.  This problem is countered by cooking the reduction longer so that less liquid exists.
Hollandaise sauce is an emulsion sauce where the fat molecules of the butter are temporarily suspended in the eggs.  This type of emulsion is not permanent and is subject to breaking down.  A hollandaise may break for a variety of reasons including exposure to heat, exposure to cold, the technique used to prepare the sauce, or simply because the sauce was not stirred from time to time.
Recovery Instructions:
Before attempting to recover a broken hollandaise, a few diagnostics should be performed.  First, feel the bottom of the bowl to determine whether the sauce is too hot or too cold.  If the hollandaise is too cold, reheat the sauce over a double boiler before following the recovery instructions.  If the sauce is too hot, let it cool slightly and add an egg yolk to the water in the recovery instructions.  If the hollandaise is the correct temperature follow the recovery instructions as written.
A method frequently used to recover a broken hollandaise sauce is as follows.  Place 1 tablespoon of warm water in a stainless steel bowl and whisk in the broken sauce, one ounce at a time, with a vigorous back and forth motion until all of the broken hollandaise has re-emulsified.  This process has proven to be highly effective in recovering broken hollandaise sauce.

Béarnaise Sauce

Yield:  1 quart (946ml)

WEIGHTS AND MEASURES          INGREDIENTS
Reduction:
2 ounces (57g)                                     shallots, minced
5 tablespoons (74ml)                          tarragon, chopped
3 tablespoons (44ml)                          chervil, chopped
1 teaspoon (5ml)                                 black peppercorns, crushed
8 fluid ounces (237ml)                        white wine vinegar
 
Hollandaise Sauce:
5                                                          egg yolks
18 fluid ounces (532ml)                      butter, clarified, warm (not hot)
to taste                                                            salt
to taste                                                            cayenne pepper
to taste                                                            lemon juice
as needed                                             tarragon, chopped
Cooking

1. Combine the shallots, tarragon, chervil, peppercorns and vinegar in a small saucepot and reduce the volume of liquid to approximately 2 fluid ounces over medium-high heat.  Strain and cool for at room temperature for at least 10 minutes before using.
2. Separate the egg yolks into a stainless steel bowl.  Strain the liquid from the reduction into the bowl with the egg yolks.
3. Cook over a double boiler, while whisking constantly and vigorously.  Cook the egg yolks until the temperature of the mixture reaches a minimum of 150ºF (65.6ºC).  This process will only take 3-5 minutes.  Typically the egg mixture will thin out and then start to thicken.  At 160ºF (71.1ºC) the egg mixture will be a nappé consistency (be careful to stir constantly so the eggs will not congeal).
4. Once the egg yolks are cooked, immediately remove the bowl from the double boiler.
5. Whisk in the warm clarified butter, one ounce at a time, with a vigorous back and forth motion, in order to incorporate as much air as possible (make sure the clarified butter is warm, as using hot butter will cause the emulsion to break down).
6. Season the sauce to taste with salt, cayenne pepper, and lemon juice.
7. If the sauce is too thick, adjust the consistency with a little warm water.
8. If the sauce appears to have small pieces of congealed egg in it, strain the béarnaise sauce through a chinois before using.
9. The béarnaise sauce can be garnished with some additional chopped tarragon if desired.

Serving/Holding

1. Hold the sauce at 140ºF (60ºC) or above stirring from time to time. (an insulated thermos is an excellent storage vessel for hollandaise sauce)

Cooling/Storing

1. Due to potential food safety hazards, it is recommended that hollandaise sauce be discarded after four hours.  Do not attempt to store or reuse hollandaise sauce.

Chef Tips
Many professionals today believe that béarnaise sauce should be classified as a main sauce; however, we choose in this book to consider it a small sauce made from hollandaise.  There are two schools of thought concerning béarnaise sauce.  The method we have chosen in this text, treating it as a small sauce, is to add the reduction to the finished hollandaise sauce.  Another method is to add the reduction to the egg yolks before they are cooked.  If this method of preparation were chosen the béarnaise sauce would be its own sauce and not a derivative of hollandaise. 
Smaller Sauces Derived from Béarnaise Sauce:
Foyot Sauce: Add 3-ounces (85g) of warmed beef glace to 1-quart (946ml) of béarnaise sauce.
Choron Sauce: Add 2-ounces (57g) of tomato paste and 2-fluid ounces (59ml) of warmed heavy cream to 1-quart (946ml) of béarnaise sauce.
Maltaise Sauce: Add 2-fluid ounces (59ml) of blood orange juice and 2-teaspoons (10ml) of orange zest to 1-quart (946ml) of hollandaise sauce. If blood oranges are not available, regular orange juice is an appropriate substitute.

Mousseline Sauce: Whip 1-quart (946ml) of heavy cream until stiff.  Carefully fold the whipped cream into 1-quart (946ml) of hollandaise sauce just before serving. This sauce is also referred to as chantilly sauce.

 

Traditional Tomato Sauce

One of the 5 grand sauces.  Traditional tomato sauce is thickened with a blond roux where modern tomato sauces are not.  An advantage to roux-thickened tomato sauce is that the moisture from the tomato sauce will not easily separate like the modern version.  The modern version will possess a cleaner more distinct tomato taste without any starchy flavor.

Yield:  1 gallon (3.8L) 

WEIGHTS AND MEASURES          INGREDIENTS
3½ ounces (99g)                                  butter
5 ounces (142g)                                   salt pork, small dice
7 ounces (198g)                                   carrots, medium dice
5 ounces (142g)                                   onions, medium dice
5 ounces (142g)                                   all-purpose flour
12 pounds (5.4kg)                               tomatoes, concassée or 1 gallon (3.8L) tomato puree
2 quarts (1.9L)                                                white stock
1                                                          bay leaf
1 sprig                                                 thyme
2 cloves                                               garlic, peeled, crushed
1 tablespoon (15ml)                            salt
1 ounce (28g)                                      sugar
1 teaspoon (5ml)                                 white pepper, ground
Cooking/Holding

1. Heat the butter in a large heavy-bottom saucepot.
2. Add the salt pork and cook over medium heat until the fat has been rendered.
3. Add the carrots and onions and cook over medium-high heat until the onions become translucent.
4. Reduce the heat to low and mix in the flour.  Cook over low heat for 10-12 minutes while stirring frequently until the roux begins to brown and takes on a nutty aroma.
5. Add the tomato concassée or puree, the white stock, bay leaf, thyme, and crushed garlic.  Season with the salt, sugar, and pepper.
6. Bring to a boil while stirring frequently.  Reduce the heat to a simmer.
7. Cover the saucepot and simmer gently for 1½-2 hours.  Do not allow the simmering sauce to fall below a temperature of 140ºF (60ºC).  The sauce can also be cooked in a pre-heated 350ºF (176.7ºC) oven if desired for the same amount of time.
8. Once the sauce is cooked, pass the sauce through a fine mesh sieve or a food mill into a clean saucepot.
9. Bring the sauce to a boil and adjust the seasonings to taste before serving.
10. Hold the sauce at 140ºF (60ºC) or higher.

Cooling/Storing

1. Refer to the earlier section on Industry Accepted Cooling Procedures for Stocks.

Chef Tips
A well-made tomato sauce will have a smooth texture and a thick enough consistency to coat food products.  The predominant flavor of the sauce should be of tomatoes rather than any of the additional vegetables, herbs, or seasonings.  Tomato sauce should be a deep-red color and possess a neutral taste, not acidic, bitter, or too sweet.

Modern Tomato Sauce

Yield:  1 gallon (3.8L)

WEIGHTS AND MEASURES          INGREDIENTS
8 fluid ounces (237ml)                        butter, clarified
2 pounds (907g)                                  onion, diced
1 pound (454g)                                   celery, diced
1 pound (454g)                                   carrots, diced
8 cloves                                               garlic, minced
12 pounds (5.4kg)                               tomato, concassée
1 pound (454g)                                   tomato paste
1¹/₃ tablespoons (20ml)                      salt
½ teaspoon (2ml)                                white pepper, ground
¼ cup (59ml)                                      basil, chiffonade
¼ cup (59ml)                                      parsley, chopped
Cooking/Holding

1. Heat the clarified butter in a large heavy-bottom saucepot and sweat the onions, celery, carrots, and garlic until the onions become translucent.
2. Add the tomato concassée and tomato paste and bring to a boil.
3. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for approximately 30 minutes until the flavor has developed.  Do not allow the simmering sauce to fall below a temperature of 140ºF (60ºC).
4. Adjust the seasoning to taste with salt and white pepper.
5. Stir in the basil and parsley.
6. Once the sauce is cooked, pass the sauce through a fine mesh sieve or a food mill into a clean saucepot. If a finer consistency is desired, the sauce can be processed in a blender or food processor.
7. Bring the sauce to a boil and adjust the seasonings to taste before serving.
8. Hold the sauce at 140º (60ºC) or above.

Cooling/Storing

1. Refer to the earlier section on Industry Accepted Cooling Procedures for Stocks.

Chef Tips
Modern tomato sauce is frequently referred to as marinara sauce.
Small Sauces Derived from Tomato Sauce:

Bolognese Sauce: Sauté 1-pound (454g) of small diced onions in 2-fluid ounces (59ml) of olive oil until the onions become translucent.  Add 2-pounds (907g) of ground beef and continue to sauté until the beef is thoroughly cooked and has reached a minimum internal temperature of 155ºF (68.3ºC) for at least 15 seconds (CCP).  Degrease the beef and onion mixture and add to 1-gallon (3.8L) of traditional or modern tomato sauce.  Simmer the sauce over medium-low heat for approximately 30 minutes.

Creole Sauce: Sauté 1½-pounds (680g) of small diced onions, 1-pound (454g) of small diced celery, and 1-tablespoon (15ml) of minced garlic in 4-fluid ounces (118ml) of olive oil until the onions become translucent.  Stir the sautéed vegetables into 1-gallon (3.8L) of traditional or modern tomato sauce.  Add 1 bay leaf and 1-tablespoon (15ml) chopped thyme to the sauce and simmer the sauce over medium-low heat for approximately 15 minutes.  Add 1-pound (454g) of small diced green bell peppers and continue to simmer over medium-low heat for an additional 15 minutes.  Season the sauce to taste with Tabasco sauce.

Smaller Sauces Derived from Creole Sauce:
Spanish Sauce: Made the same way as the creole sauce except that 16-ounces (454g) of sliced mushrooms are added and cooked with the onions, celery, and garlic.  Spanish sauce is garnished with sliced green or black olives.

Milanaise Sauce: Sauté 20-ounces (567g) of sliced mushrooms in 2-fluid ounces (59ml) of olive oil until the mushrooms are thoroughly cooked.  Stir the sautéed mushrooms into 1-gallon (3.8L) of traditional or modern tomato sauce.  Garnish the sauce by adding 20-ounces (567g) of julienne smoked or cured ham and 20 ounces (567g) of julienne smoked or pickled tongue.

Velouté Sauce

One of the 5 grand sauces.  Velouté is a silky smooth sauce made by thickening a white chicken or veal stock or a fish stock with roux.  Two main small sauces are derived from a velouté sauce made from white stock.  Allemande sauce adds lemon juice and a liaison to a finished velouté while suprême sauce adds cream to the finished velouté.  From these two small sauces, many other derivatives of velouté are obtained.  A sampling of smaller sauce derivatives for both fish stock and white stock based velouté sauces are listed below.  Velouté-based sauces are frequently used in American regional cooking.

Yield:  1 gallon (3.8L)

 
WEIGHTS AND MEASURES          INGREDIENTS
8 ounces (227g)                                   butter
8 ounces (227g)                                   all-purpose flour
5 quarts (4.7L)                                                stock, cold
to taste                                                            salt
to taste                                                white pepper, ground
1 ounce (28g)                                      butter
Cooking/Holding

1. Melt the first quantity of butter in a heavy bottom saucepot.  Add the flour and stir to make a roux.
2. Cook the roux over low heat for approximately 6-8 minutes while stirring constantly.  Remove from the heat.
3. Gradually add the cold stock to the roux, whisking constantly to prevent lumps from forming.
4. Bring to a boil and reduce the heat to a simmer.  Skim the surface of the sauce regularly.
5. Simmer gently for 45-60 minutes.  Do not allow the simmering sauce to fall below a temperature of 140ºF (60ºC).
6. Season to taste with salt and white pepper.
7. Strain through a piece of pre-rinsed cheesecloth or a chinois strainer into a bain marie.
8. Place butter on top of the sauce to prevent a skin from forming.
9. Hold the sauce at 140º (60ºC) or above.

Cooling/Storing

1. Refer to the earlier section on Industry Accepted Cooling Procedures for Stocks. 

Chef Tips
A well-made velouté sauce should be very smooth with a silky texture.  The predominant flavor of the sauce should be fish or chicken, depending on which stock was used to make the sauce.  Velouté sauces made with veal stock should have a neutral flavor. The consistency of velouté sauce should be thick enough to lightly coat food products, but not so thick that it tastes starchy.
Small Sauces Derived from Fish Velouté Sauce:
 

Cardinal Sauce:

Stir in 1-quart (946ml) of fish stock to 1-gallon (3.8L) of fish velouté and reduce the volume of liquid by half over medium-high heat.  Add 2-quarts (1.9L) of heavy cream.  Season the sauce with ½-teaspoon (2ml) of cayenne pepper.  Bring the sauce to a boil and stir in 6-ounces (170g) of lobster butter (see recipe).  Garnish for the sauce by stirring in 1-pound (454g) of chopped lobster coral just before using.

Bercy Sauce:

Sauté 8-ounces (227g) of shallots in 1-ounce (28g) of butter until they become translucent.  Add 1-quart (946ml) of white wine and 1-quart (946ml) of fish stock and reduce the volume of liquid by ¹/₃ over medium high heat.  Stir the reduced liquid into 1-gallon (3.8L) of fish velouté sauce.
Garnish the sauce by stirring in ½-cup (118ml) of chopped parsley just before using.

Normandy Sauce:

Add 1-pound (454g) of mushroom stems and 2-cups (473ml) of fish stock to 1-gallon (3.8L) of fish velouté sauce and reduce the volume of liquid by ¹/₃ over medium heat.  Combine 8 egg yolks with 3-cups (710ml) of heavy cream to make a liaison.  Temper the liaison into the hot velouté sauce.  Do not allow the sauce to boil from this point on. Strain the sauce through a fine sieve or chinois strainer.  The process of tempering is done in this recipe to prevent the eggs in the liaison from cooking and/or scrambling when placed into the hot liquid.  To temper the liaison, stir in approximately 4-6 fluid ounces (118-177ml) of the hot sauce into the liaison, to warm it gradually.  Then, stir in the liaison into the remaining hot liquid.
Small Sauces Derived from Veal or Chicken Velouté Sauce:
 

Allemande Sauce

Yield:  1 gallon (3.8L)

 
WEIGHTS AND MEASURES          INGREDIENTS
1 gallon (3.8L)                         veal or chicken velouté sauce (see recipe)
8                                                          egg yolks
3 cups (710ml)                                    heavy cream
1 fluid ounce (30ml)                            lemon juice
to taste                                                            salt
to taste                                                            white pepper, ground
as needed                                             butter
Cooking/Holding

1. Heat the prepared velouté sauce over medium heat in a heavy bottom saucepot while stirring frequently to a minimum internal temperature of 165ºF (73.9ºC) for at least 15 seconds.
2. Combine the egg yolks with the heavy cream to make a liaison.
3. Temper the liaison into the hot velouté sauce.  Do not allow to sauce to boil from this point on.
4. Add the lemon juice.
5. Season the sauce to taste with salt and white pepper.
6. Strain the sauce through a fine sieve or chinois strainer.
7. Place the butter on top of the sauce to prevent a skin from forming.
8. Hold the sauce at 140º (60ºC) or above.

Cooling/Storing

1. Refer to the earlier section on Industry Accepted Cooling Procedures for Stocks.

Chef Tips
The process of tempering is done in this recipe to prevent the eggs in the liaison from cooking and/or scrambling when placed into the hot liquid.  To temper the liaison, stir in approximately 4-6 ounces (118-177ml) of the hot velouté into the liaison, to warm it gradually.  Then, stir in the liaison into the remaining hot liquid.
 
Smaller Sauces Derived from Allemande Sauce:
 
Poulette Sauce:
Add 2-pounds (907g) of sliced mushrooms and 4-ounces (113g) of minced shallots that have been sautéed in 4-ounces (113g) of butter to 1-gallon (3.8L) of allemande sauce.  To finish the poulette sauce, stir in 8-fluid ounces (237ml) of hot heavy cream and 1-teaspoon (5ml) of lemon juice.  Garnish the sauce with ¼-cup (59ml) of chopped parsley.
 
Mushroom Sauce:
 
Add 1-pound (454g) of sliced mushrooms that have been sautéed in 2-ounces (57g) of butter to 1-gallon (3.8L) of allemande sauce.  To finish the mushroom sauce, stir in 2½-tablespoons (37ml) of lemon juice and the unstrained, sautéed mushrooms.
 
Horseradish Sauce:
 
Add 1-pint (473ml) of hot heavy cream and 1¼-tablespoons (18ml) of dry mustard to 1-gallon (3.8L) of allemande sauce.  To finish the horseradish sauce, stir in 8-ounces (227g) of grated horseradish root.  Do not cook the horseradish with the sauce, as it will develop an unpleasant aftertaste.
Aurora Sauce:
 
Add 8-ounces (227g) of tomato paste to 1-gallon (3.8L) of allemande sauce.  To finish the aurora sauce, stir in 4-ounces (113g) of butter.

Suprême Sauce

Yield:  1 gallon (3.8L)

 
WEIGHTS AND MEASURES          INGREDIENTS
1 gallon (3.8L)                         veal or chicken velouté sauce (see recipe)
8 ounces (227g)                                   mushroom trimmings
1 quart (946ml)                                   heavy cream
to taste                                                            salt
to taste                                                            white pepper, ground
as needed                                             butter
Cooking/Holding

1. Heat the prepared velouté sauce over medium heat in a heavy bottom saucepot while stirring frequently to a minimum internal temperature of 165ºF (73.9ºC) for at least 15 seconds.
2. Add the mushroom trimmings and reduce the volume of liquid by 1/4 over medium heat.  Stir frequently.
3. Slowly blend in the heavy cream.
4. Season the sauce to taste with salt and white pepper.
5. Strain the sauce through a fine sieve or chinois strainer.
6. Place the butter on top of the sauce to prevent a skin from forming.
7. Hold the sauce at 140º (60ºC) or above.

Cooling/Storing

1. Refer to the earlier section on Industry Accepted Cooling Procedures for Stocks.

 
Smaller Sauces Derived from Suprême Sauce:
 
Ivory Sauce:
Add 12-ounces (340g) of chicken glace to 1-gallon (3.8L) of suprême sauce.
 
Hungarian Sauce:
Add 8-ounces (227g) of diced onions that have been sweated in 2-ounces (57ml) of butter to 1-gallon (3.8L) of suprême sauce.  To finish the Hungarian sauce, stir in 2-ounces (57g) of paprika, strain, and add 4-ounces (113g) of whole butter.
Butter Sauces:
Butter sauces are not considered a grand sauce because other sauces are not derived from them.  There are, however, many variations in the ingredients and flavoring agents used to make them.  The most frequently made butter sauces are beurre blanc and beurre rouge sauces.  These sauces are emulsified, without any egg yolks, making them very delicate. Although the preparation of beurre blanc and beurre rouge sauces is similar to hollandaise sauce, butter sauces are much thinner and lighter due to the lack of eggs.   Beurre blanc sauce and its many variations are commonly used in American regional cuisine. 
 

Beurre Blanc Sauce

Yield:  1 quart (946ml)

 
WEIGHTS AND MEASURES          INGREDIENTS
1 fluid ounce (30ml)                            white wine, dry
4 fluid ounces (118ml)                        white wine vinegar
1½ teaspoon (7ml)                              salt
½ teaspoon (2ml)                                white pepper, ground
3 tablespoons (44ml)                          shallots, minced
2 pounds (907g)                                  sweet butter, chilled, ½-inch cubes
Cooking/Holding

1. Combine all of the ingredients except for the butter in a heavy-bottom saucepot.
2. Bring the mixture to a boil and reduce over medium-high heat until only 1-2 tablespoons of liquid remain.  If you desire the beurre blanc sauce to have a thick consistency, reduce the liquid until almost dry.  For a medium consistency, reduce to 1 tablespoon (15ml) and for a thin consistency, reduce to 2 tablespoons (30ml).  If more than 2 tablespoons (30ml) of liquid remain, the beurre blanc sauce will be too thin to use.
3. Whisk in the butter cubes a little at a time over low heat making sure the butter has completely emulsified before whisking in more.  The temperature of the sauce should always remain between 100ºF (37.8ºC) and 120ºF (48.9ºC).  If the sauce falls below a temperature of 100ºF (37.8ºC) it will begin to solidify and at temperatures above 120ºF (48.9ºC) the butter may begin to separate from the emulsion.
4. Continue this process until all of the butter is emulsified.
5. Strain the sauce through a piece of pre-rinsed cheesecloth or through a chinois strainer.
6. Hold the sauce between 100ºF (37.8ºC) and 120ºF (48.9ºC).

Cooling/Storing

1. Due to potential food safety hazards, beurre blanc sauce should be discarded after two hours.  Do not store or reuse beurre blanc sauce.

 

Chef Tips
A well-made beurre blanc sauce should be silky smooth and about the consistency of heavy cream.  Beurre blanc sauce should be somewhat neutral in taste with a hint of flavor from the wine and shallots used in the reduction.  Although the sauce is fairly thin, it should still be thick enough to lightly coat food products.  Due to the neutral flavor of beurre blanc sauce, it is frequently modified with herbs, spices, and various types of wine to match it to a specific food product.  Beurre blanc is frequently used as a sauce to accompany fish, shellfish, and vegetables.
Use only non-reactive saucepots such as stainless steel when making beurre blanc sauce.  Copper or aluminum saucepots will have a tendency to react with the sauce, turning it gray in color.
By adding 1-fluid ounce (30ml) of heavy cream to the finished reduction and then whisking in the butter, a more sturdy emulsion will be created without changing the flavor or texture characteristics. 
Variations of Beurre Blanc Sauce:
Beurre Rouge: Follow the same procedure as beurre blanc except substitute dry red wine and red wine vinegar for the white wine and white wine vinegar.  Beurre rouge is frequently used as a sauce to accompany fish, chicken, and vegetables. 
Lemon Butter Sauce: Stir in 2-tablespoons (30ml) of lemon juice for each quart (946ml) of beurre blanc.  For additional flavor stir in ½-cup (59ml) of fresh chopped herbs such as basil, dill, or parsley.
Pepper Butter Sauce: Add 2-teaspoons (10ml) each of black, green, and pink peppercorns to the reduction in the recipe for beurre blanc.  Garnish the sauce with some whole peppercorns of each color.
Compound Butter: Whole butter blended with herbs, seasonings, nuts, reductions, fish, seafood, roe, crustacean shells, and/or vegetables and then chilled.  Compound butters are typically used as a sauce for grilled meats and fish when there are no pan drippings or residual flavors from the cooking process to create a sauce.  When a compound butter is placed over a grilled meat or fish, the butter begins to melt, coating the food product and adding an enhanced flavor to the finished product.  For some preparations, the compound butter can be melted in a saucepot, stirred to incorporate all of the flavors, and spooned over the item it is being used to compliment.  Compound butters can also be used to finish other sauces.  This finishing process is referred to as “mounting a sauce” or “monté au beurre.”  Compound butters are used extensively in American regional cuisine.

Maître d’Hôtel Butter

Yield:  1 pound (454g)

WEIGHTS AND MEASURES          INGREDIENTS
1 pound (454g)                                   sweet butter, softened
¼ cup (59ml)                                      parsley, chopped
3 fluid ounces (89ml)                          lemon juice
½ teaspoon (2ml)                                salt
¼ teaspoon (1ml)                                white pepper, ground
Cooking/Holding

1. Combine all the ingredients in a mixing machine.  Using the paddle attachment, mix on medium speed until the butter mixture is smooth and all of the ingredients are completely incorporated.
2. Place a large piece of parchment paper or plastic wrap on a clean work surface and spoon the butter mixture in a horizontal line across the paper or plastic.
3. Tightly roll the butter mixture in the paper or plastic into a long cylinder shape.
4. Seal the ends of the cylinder.

Cooling/Storing

1. Label, date, and store the compound butter under refrigeration at 41ºF (5ºC) or lower, until solid or until needed.

Other Varieties
Casino Butter: Add 2-ounces (57g) minced shallots, 2-ounces (57g) minced red onions, 2-ounces (57g) brunoise red bell peppers, and 2-ounces (57g) brunoise green bell peppers that have all been blanched or sautéed in 1-ounce (28g) of butter to 1-pound (454g) of sweet butter.  The vegetable mixture needs to be chilled when blending into the softened butter.  The compound butter is seasoned to taste with salt and white pepper before rolling and chilling.
Herb Butter: Add between ¼-cup (59ml) and ½-cup (118ml) chopped fresh herbs, depending upon the strength of the flavor desired, to 1-pound (454g) of sweet butter. The compound butter is seasoned to taste with salt and white pepper before rolling and chilling.  The selection of fresh herbs is a preference based on the desired flavor of the finished product.  Some of the more frequently used herbs include parsley, basil, dill, chives, tarragon, and chervil, or a combination of one or more of the herbs.
Lobster or Crayfish Butter: Add 8-ounces (227g) of ground cooked lobster or crayfish meat, shells and/or lobster coral to 1-pound (454g) of sweet butter.  The compound butter is seasoned to taste with salt and white pepper.  The butter and seafood mixture is then clarified, strained through a piece of pre-rinsed cheesecloth or through a chinois strainer, and chilled.  Once cold and solid the butterfat can be removed and used as a flavoring agent or as an ingredient in other sauces.
Red Pepper Butter: Add 8-ounces (227g) of pureed roasted, peeled, and seeded red bell peppers to 1-pound (454g) of sweet butter.  The compound butter is seasoned to taste with salt and white pepper before rolling and chilling.

Pan Gravy

Yield:  1 quart (946ml)

WEIGHTS AND MEASURES          INGREDIENTS
4 ounces (113g)                                   onions, peeled and chopped
2 ounces (57g)                                     celery, chopped
2 ounces (57ml)                                  carrots, peeled and chopped
2 fluid ounces (59ml)                          red or white wine or wine vinegar
1½ quarts (1.4L)                                 beef, game, or poultry stock, cold
2 fluid ounces (59ml)                          rendered fat (from a roasted protein item)
2 ounces (57g)                                     all-purpose flour
to taste                                                            salt
to taste                                                white pepper, ground
1 ounce (28g)                                      butter
Cooking/Holding

1. Remove the roasted food product from the pan once it is done.
2. Place the roasting pan over medium-high heat and add the onions, celery, and carrots.
3. Sauté the vegetables in the roasting pan until they are brown and have completely caramelized.
4. Clarify the fat by continuing to cook over medium heat until the fat is clear and all of the moisture has evaporated.
5. Remove the fat reserving 2 fluid ounces (59ml) until needed.
6. Return the roasting pan to medium-high heat and deglaze the pan with an appropriate acidic liquid.  Reduce the liquid over medium high heat until almost dry.
7. Add the stock.  Bring to a boil and reduce the heat to a simmer.
8. Simmer over low heat for 30-45 minutes until the volume of liquid has reduced by ¹/₃.  Do not allow the simmering stock to fall below a temperature of 140ºF (60ºC).
9. In a separate saucepot, combine the reserved fat and the flour.  Cook the roux over low heat for approximately 10 minutes.  Remove from the heat.
10. Gradually add the roux to the simmering stock, whisking constantly to prevent lumps from forming.
11. Bring to a boil and reduce the heat to a simmer.
12. Simmer gently for an additional 45-60 minutes.  Do not allow the simmering sauce to fall below a temperature of 140ºF (60ºC).
13. Strain the sauce through pre-rinsed cheesecloth or a chinois strainer into a bain marie.
14. Season to taste with salt and white pepper.
15. Place butter on top of the sauce to prevent a skin from forming.
16. Hold the sauce at 140º (60ºC) or above.

Cooling/Storing

1. Refer to the earlier section on Industry Accepted Cooling Procedures for Stocks.

Chef Tips
A well-made pan gravy should be smooth and free of lumps.  The flavor of the sauce should be predominantly the same as the flavor of the protein item that was roasted.  Pan gravy is typically a little thicker than a brown sauce, but not sticky or starchy in flavor.  The pan drippings and rendered fat used to prepare pan gravy help to give it a distinct taste that nicely compliments the protein item being served with it.
Coulis:
A term that refers to a sauce made from a puree of fruits or vegetables.  Fruit coulis are usually served cold as an accompanying sauce for desserts.  Vegetable coulis are served both hot and cold as an accompanying sauce for meats, fish, vegetables, and starches.  Typically, a single fruit or vegetable will be the primary flavor in a coulis.  If from fruit, the coulis is made by pureeing fresh or frozen berries, sweetening the sauce with sugar syrup, such as corn syrup, which also helps to adjust the consistency of the sauce.  When a coulis is made from a vegetable, such as red bell peppers, the peppers are usually roasted, peeled, and seeded and then pureed with heavy cream or stock to adjust the consistency, and seasoned to taste with salt and white pepper.  Many times, sautéed onions, shallots, and/or garlic are also added to the pureed coulis to enhance the flavor of the sauce.  Other vegetables frequently used to make coulis include broccoli, squash, and tomatoes.  Vegetable coulis sauces are popular in American regional cuisine due to their healthy attributes.  Coulis and other pureed sauces are used extensively in American regional cuisine.  One of the most popular coulis is made with red bell peppers.  Two examples of red bell pepper coulis are used in this text—one with a wine base and one with a cream base.

Red Bell Pepper Coulis

Yield:  6 portions

Portion size:  3 ounces

                        WEIGHTS AND MEASURES          INGREDIENTS
30 ounces (850g)                                 red bell peppers, stem and seeds removed
4 ounces (113g)                                   shallots, peeled
2 cloves                                               garlic, peeled
1 fluid ounce (30ml)                            olive oil
½ teaspoon (2ml)                                thyme, chopped
2 teaspoons (10ml)                             sugar
4 fluid ounces  (59ml)                         heavy cream
to taste                                                            salt
to taste                                                            white pepper
Cooking

1. Roast the red bell peppers, shallots, and garlic cloves in a 350ºF (176.7ºC) oven for approximately 35 minutes or until the skin of the red peppers begin to loosen and bubble.
2. Remove from the oven and peel the red peppers.  Discard the skin.
3. Place the red peppers, garlic, shallots, and oil in a food processor or blender and puree.
4. Add the fresh thyme and sugar.
5. Continue to puree until smooth.
6. Place the puree in a small saucepot, blend in the heavy cream and bring to a boil.  Turn the heat down to a simmer and season to taste with salt and white pepper.

Serving/Holding

1. Hold the sauce at 140ºF (60ºC) or higher until needed.

Cooling/Storing

1. Refer to the earlier section on Industry Accepted Cooling Procedures for Stocks.

Chef Tips

By adding a cornstarch slurry to the sauce after bringing it to a boil, the natural liquid will not be as prone to separate from the coulis as it starts to cool on the plate, however, the addition of a slurry will add a slightly starchy flavor to the coulis.

Relishes and Salsas:

A chilled, chunky mixture of fruits or vegetables mixed with herbs and seasonings.  Relishes and salsas are not yet recognized as a “real” sauce; however, their popularity and frequency of use in American regional cuisine is unquestioned.  Relishes and salsas feature fresh, intense flavors, a colorful appearance, and are a light and healthy alternative to most traditional sauces.  Similar to a compound butter a relish or salsa is typically used as a sauce for grilled meats and fish when there are no pan drippings or residual flavors from the cooking process to create a sauce.  Relishes and salsas generally add a colorful garnish to a food product as well as a unique taste and flavor.  Relishes and salsas can also enhance the taste of another food product with crunchy textures and complementing cool/hot and spicy/sweet flavors.  Relishes and salsas are also extensively used in American regional cuisine.  Many examples of relishes, salsas, and compotes can be found in this text.

Black Bean, Jicama and Corn Salsa

Yield:  2¼ cups

WEIGHTS AND MEASURES          INGREDIENTS

                        4 ounces (113g)                                   red onions, minced
1 clove                                                 garlic, peeled, minced
8 ounces or 1 cup (227g)                    corn, roasted, kernels removed
4 ounces (113g)                                   jicama, peeled, small dice
1 ounce (28g)                                      serrano chili, seeded, minced
2 ounces (57g)                                     black beans, cooked or canned
1 tablespoon (15ml)                            lime juice, fresh
2 fluid ounces (30ml)                          extra virgin olive oil
to taste                                                            salt
Preparing

1. Clean and prepare all of the vegetables as indicated and reserve under refrigeration for a product temperature of 41ºF (5ºC) or lower.

Cooking

1. Combine all of the ingredients in a bowl and allow the salsa to marinate overnight while under refrigeration at a product temperature of 41ºF (5ºC) or lower.  This will allow all of the flavors to integrate together.

Serving/Holding

1. Hold the salsa at 41ºF (5ºC) or lower.

Cooling/Storing

1. Cover salsa, label, date and store, under refrigeration at a product temperature of 41ºF (5ºC) or lower.

Chef Tips

To roast corn over charcoal, prepare a moderately hot charcoal fire.  Pull the back husks on each ear but do not remove them.  Carefully remove the silk, then smooth the husks back over ears of corn.  Secure the end by tying the tips with a little butcher’s twine.  Turn ears frequently to ensure an even heat distribution while grilling.  The corn can also be roasted in 400ºF (204.4ºC) oven for approximately 55-60 minutes if desired.