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Cajun and Creole Cuisines
Cajun and Creole Cuisines are widely recognized as two of America’s oldest and richest regional cuisines. Each are full of culture and history dating back almost three hundred years, with roots and traditions of French classical cuisine, which, of course, is significantly older. Cajun and Creole cuisines are in a class by themselves due to their ability to combine the rich and diverse cooking methods of several cultures into a singular taste and philosophy.
Around 1755, French Acadians who were exiled from the Brittany and Normandy regions of France due to religious conflicts began relocating from Nova Scotia in Canada. The Acadians left Canada and many settled in the swamps, bayous, and marshes of Louisiana. Cajun country, also referred to as Acadiana, runs approximately 300 miles from the marshes of the gulf coast to Texas and includes the inland prairies—accounting for almost one-third of Louisiana. Because the Acadians were isolated from New Orleans, eventually a new dialect came to be—Cajun French—a mixture of words from French, Canadian French, Native American, and African languages.
“Cajun” is a term used to describe both an area of America and the people who live and/or come from that region. In the swamp country the Acadians had to rely on regional resources such as fish, shellfish, and wild game for sustenance. Native Americans taught them how to exploit the swamps, bayous, and surrounding forests for agricultural and hunting purposes. The Cajuns learned how to cook using ingredients indigenous to this region and have many dishes attributed to their culture such as Crawfish Étouffée, Gateau de Sirop, and Alligator Gumbo. The Cajuns are well known for their warm hospitality and a cuisine that is earthy and robust like the people: hearty, spicy, and simple. It is a Cajun custom to always throw in a little extra whether it’s a few extra shrimp in the étouffée or thirteen cookies in a dozen at the local bakery. Lagniappe is the term in southern Louisiana referring to this hospitality and means “something extra.”
The Cajuns developed variations of jambalaya, grillades, fricassees, stews, gumbos, and other dishes that became indigenous to southern Louisiana. Cajuns also enhanced the art of sausage making from the local Germans. The boucherie, a traditional daylong Cajun event centered on the butchering of a hog. During a boucherie, first the hog is slaughtered, and then it is butchered. Every possible part of the animal is utilized in one preparation or another, many of which are prepared that day, such as boudin, cracklings, hogs head cheese, tasso, chaudin, and sausages. Today the Cajuns are quite famous for their andouille, boudin and tasso that enhances their flavorful dishes.
One extremely unique dish that emerged from the combination of French, Native American, African, and Southern cultures and cooking techniques is gumbo, a New Orleans signature dish found on page xx. The French soup bouillabaisse heavily influenced gumbo. The Cajuns combined oil and/or animal fats and flour which was cooked over heat to form their thickening agent, the roux, which is a classic French technique for thickening soups and sauces. The roux used in gumbo has since been modified and expanded by various cultures to create numerous colors and tastes. The Africans contributed the vegetable okra and the Native Americans added filé powder to gumbo, both of which serve as additional thickening agents. The French contributed to Cajun cooking the use of mirepoix, a combination of aromatic vegetables frequently used in French cooking, but adapted the vegetables to those indigenous to the region. Today this combination of onions, celery, and green peppers is still widely utilized in cooking and is referred to as the “holy trinity.”
The Germans brought their knowledge of sausage making and utilized a wide assortment of meat and dairy products. They helped establish the boucherie and fine sausage making in southern Louisiana. They brought with them not only pigs, but chicken and cattle as well. Before the arrival of the Germans, a steady supply of milk and butter was seldom available in southern Louisiana. The Italians contributed their red gravies, garlic, and bread crumbs. These ingredients became local cooking staples, which were used to create stuffed artichokes, eggplant, and mirliton (a type of squash).
The Creoles were Europeans who traveled to New Orleans in the late 1600’s for the opportunity to establish communities and traditions in the New World. The term Creole is derived from the Spanish word “criollo,” which roughly translated means “native to a place.” The Creoles are generally believed to be peoples of French or Spanish descent who came to Louisiana from one of the other American Colonies. In the state of Louisiana, the term Creole is claimed by two different groups of people. White Creoles are those who can trace their lineage back to their aristocratic French or Spanish ancestry. These individuals were generally wealthy and educated, bringing with them a variety of European celebrated dishes. Black Creoles, former slaves who often took the same last name as their former owners, also trace their lineage in the same fashion. Both black and white Creoles maintained high standards for their food and service throughout the nineteenth century. It was not uncommon for a typical Creole dinner or brunch to have at least seven courses. Today the term Creole is not only used to describe people and their culture, it is also used to describe a style of cooking associated with the Louisiana region.
Creole cuisine is most profoundly impacted by the French, Spanish, German, Italian, Native American, West Indian, and African-American cultures. When the French settlers began to arrive, it was the Choctaw tribe who introduced them to many foods that were indigenous to the area. The Choctaw used foods that included corn-based breads and cereals, squash (particularly mirlitons), bay leaves, and dried beans. They used persimmons in syrups and chokecherries to season smoked meats. One of the greatest contributions to Creole cuisine that came from the Choctaws was powdered sassafras leaves. Referred to as filé powder, this spice acts as a thickening agent.
In addition to the French, the influences of these other cultures on Creole cooking brought us some of America’s most tasty dishes. The Spanish culture is attributed for the use of tomatoes and spices in many Creole recipes. In the early 1800’s, the Spaniards of Louisiana began cooking with tomatoes. At that time, many in Europe believed the New World tomato to be poisonous and it was the Spanish who proved otherwise with the special flavors their dishes attained through the use of tomatoes as an ingredient. Spanish paella, traditionally a seafood and rice dish, evolved into the Creole rice dish called jambalaya found on page xx.
African Americans have also had a profound influence on the cooking style of the region. Originally, in Louisiana the African Americans were slaves or, predominantly, farmers. When they cooked, they combined ingredients such as rice, beans, and green leafy vegetables with traditional African ingredients such as okra, yams, onions, and garlic. They also favored a cooking technique called slow roasting. This idea of continuous cooking extended from their contributions to traditional French roux. These African-American cooks added fresh herbs, onions, garlic, and tough pork or chicken to the traditional butter and flour base, simmering it over low heat all day long. This aromatic mixture was then added to a variety of sauces, soups, and other local dishes. The people enslaved from the West Indies introduced a cooking style, which also transformed Creole cuisine. They favored a slow cooking technique called braising. This method was later used by others to make the gumbo.
The Creoles maintained high standards of food and dining service throughout the 19th century that was consistent with their aristocratic heritage. As many as seven courses would make up the typical Creole dinner with even more courses at a gathering for Sunday Brunch. The Creoles’ sophisticated cuisine combines delicate sauces with robust flavors making it one of America’s most unique regional cuisines. Today, many of these extravagant dining experiences have disappeared; however the dishes and preparations live on.
The basic differences between the Cajun and Creole cuisine of the Louisiana region can be simply stated. Cajun cuisine is more of a country style of cooking, using more animal fats and meats than does the Creole style. Creole cuisine on the other hand is a citified style of cooking more associated with New Orleans than the rest of the state. The Spanish and French influences on the Creoles have made it more refined than that of the Cajun cooking style. Both Cajun and Creole cuisine, however, share many of the same ingredients and spices, such as filé powder and hot pepper sauce, as well as using the “holy trinity” of vegetables in many dishes and preparations.
Celebrations have always been a large part of the Cajun and Creole culture. Most notable is Mardi Gras, an event that began in 1699 when Pierre Lemoyne d’Iberville proclaimed a small piece of land on the Mississippi River near New Orleans, Pointe du Mardi Gras, in honor of Fat Tuesday. Mardi Gras are the French words for “Fat Tuesday,” which is the day before Ash Wednesday and the first day of lent. Fat Tuesday celebrates the arrival of the three kings who traveled to pay homage to the Christ Child. The first Mardi Gras parade was recorded in 1872 and introduced the traditional Mardi Gras colors—purple representing justice, green symbolizing faith, and gold for power. Mardi Gras is celebrated every year beginning on the 6th of January (Twelfth Night) and is cause for celebrations in the entire region, but most notably in New Orleans. One traditional event during Mardi Gras is called “the Running of the Mardi Gras.” It requires the participants to go in search of food while on horseback and to collect crayfish, chickens, and pigs, all of which is part of a relay race to collect the needed ingredients to prepare “Mardi Gras Gumbo.” The “Carnival” is a period of celebration, typically associated with Mardi Gras. The word ‘carnival’ can be interpreted in Latin as “putting away the meat”, and is a celebration to prepare for fasting before the Easter holiday.
The first coffeehouse and trading post that opened in Jackson Square in New Orleans in 1791 was called The French Market. At the time, the French Market was a center for business and society in the New Orleans area. Everything was available, from herbs and vegetables to slaves. The bar located inside the French Market was a gathering place where soldiers, businesspeople, and the aristocracy could gather and drink coffee. In 1812, a hurricane destroyed the original French Market; however, an improved market was quickly erected. In addition to the typical products found at the original French Market, a variety of meats and poultry stalls were added to the new facility. Today, the market is three city blocks long and houses a yearlong farmer’s market where the region’s freshest produce is bought and sold among other products indigenous to the region.
Today, New Orleans is well known for its unique cuisines and for its many outstanding dining establishments. Antoine’s, which opened in 1840, was the first restaurant to open in New Orleans. Antoine’s is widely recognized as a New Orleans institution and has been owned by the same family for five generations. It is said that during the American prohibition period, patrons of Antoine’s could enjoy a cup of coffee, which was laced with illegal cognac and served in a tall, white pedestal cup designed by the chef to disguise its content. The coffee drinks served at Antoine’s are still considered today as one of their finest specialties.
Cajun and Creole Indigenous Ingredients
Absinthe: An alcoholic beverage also referred to as the “green goblin.” Absinthe was an anise-flavored liquor originally from Switzerland but made famous in Paris. At one point the beverage was so popular that men carried vials of absinthe that were hidden in compartments built in their walking canes. Absinthe was banned in America in 1912 because the aromatic herb, wormwood, used in its distillation process was discovered to be a narcotic. The addictive properties of absinthe were no doubt a factor for its huge popularity. Absinthe was the liquor used in the original preparation of Oysters Rockefeller, made famous at Antoine’s, and the Sazerac cocktail. After the ban of absinthe, Pernod was used to make the oyster dish and Herbsainte was used to make the Sazerac. Absinthe is now used as a generic term for any liquor with an anise or licorice flavor.
Alligator: A large reptile indigenous to the swamps, rivers, and marshes of the Louisiana region. Alligator meat, a Cajun specialty, is high in protein while low in fat and cholesterol. It is said to be as tasty and tender as chicken. The choicest cuts of alligator are the tail and jaw sections, although the legs and body meat can be eaten as well with a little tenderizing. Alligator meat needs to be trimmed of all fat and tendons before it is cooked to prevent it from becoming tough.
Andouille Sausage: Originally brought to Louisiana by the Acadians. Andouille sausage is now a well-known Cajun sausage made from pork butt, shank, pork fat, and spicy seasonings, which is then smoked slowly over pecan wood and sugar cane. Authentic Andouille sausage is stuffed into beef middle casings making the finished product about 1½ inches in diameter. Once cooked the sausage is very dark to almost black in color. Andouille is the preferred sausage for making jambalaya and gumbo and is used as an accompaniment for red beans and rice.
Backbone Stew: A traditional Cajun dish typically prepared during a boucherie. This traditional dish is similar to the French oxtail soup. The hog’s backbone s cut into 2-inch pieces, browned, and cooked with vegetables. Backbone stew is thickened with a spiced, brown roux and is typically eaten over rice.
Bananas Foster: Named after Dick Foster, who in the 1950’s served a role in helping to clean up New Orleans’s French Quarter. The popular dessert is prepared tableside and was made famous at a New Orleans restaurant named Brennan’s. The dish cooks bananas in a mixture of butter, brown sugar, cinnamon, rum, and banana liqueur and then is served hot, right out of the pan, with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. The dessert began at Brennan’s as an opportunity to use bananas, which were frequently shipped into the port of New Orleans from Central and South America. Today, Brennan’s claims to use over 35,000 pounds of bananas each year in the preparation of their classic dessert.
Beignet: The French word for fritter. Beignets are diamond-shaped, raised doughnuts without the hole in the middle. They are typically topped liberally with powdered sugar before serving.
Blackened Redfish: A dish that was invented by Chef Paul Prudhomme in 1979 at his restaurant K-Pauls in New Orleans. Blackened Redfish became so famous that it is now considered the icon for Cajun cooking. Chef Prudhomme devised a method of preparing the fish, which was seasoned with his own custom blend of Cajun spices and cooked at a super-hot temperature. The dish was so popular at one time that the fish was placed on the endangered species list.
Blue Crabs: Although not as well known as blue crabs from Chesapeake Bay, Louisiana is the primary exporter of blue crabs to the Mid-Atlantic region. Blue crabs in Louisiana are available in both hard- and soft-shell varieties. The meat from blue crabs is also available and is packaged by the size of the clumps of meat. Backfin and jumbo lump are the most popular as well as the most expensive forms of blue crabmeat. A New Orleans specialty is a fried, soft-shell crab, po boy sandwich, which is frequently sold by street vendors and restaurants.
Boudin Blanc: A well-known regional sausage made from ground pork and organ meat, rice, and spices that are cooked in a casing made from the pig’s intestines. Cajun-style boudin is spicier than the French boudin, where its roots come from, and does not use milk in its preparation. Boudin Blanc is sold commercially and is frequently eaten as a snack. The sausage is typically warmed and held in a napkin. The meat from within the casing is squeezed into the mouth. The tough casing is discarded after the contents have been consumed.
Boudin Rouge: A relative of the Boudin Blanc, except this sausage is made with the fresh blood of a slaughtered pig in place of the rice used in the Boudin Blanc. Boudin rouge is similar in nature to blood pudding from France, which is made in the same fashion. Because fresh blood is used in the preparation of Boudin Rouge it is not permitted to sell it commercially in America. However, many Cajuns still prepare this sausage during the traditional boucherie and reserve it for personal consumption.
Bread Pudding: Considered by many to be the apple pie of Louisiana, bread pudding is a dessert that combines the influences of the French, with their bread, and the Germans, with their eggs and dairy products. There are a number of “authentic” recipes in the region for bread pudding, but all start with leftover French bread, which is soaked in milk and eggs, combined with ingredients such as nuts and raisins, nutmeg and cinnamon, and baked in an oven. “Traditional” sauces are as numerous as “authentic” recipes for bread pudding; however, whiskey or caramel sauces are frequently used as the topping.
Brown Meuniere Sauce: A brown butter sauce popular in New Orleans and the Louisiana region. Meuniere sauce is essentially the same as the French sauce “beurre noisette” and is used to top both meat and fish dishes. Brown meuniere sauce in Louisiana typically has demi glace sauce and cayenne pepper added to the brown butter giving it a spicy flavor and a nutty aroma.
Café au Lait: Coffee that is made with the addition of ground chicory root and served with steamed milk. Café au Lait became popular during the Civil War and, to this day, remains a Louisiana specialty.
Cane Syrup: The concentrated sap of the sugar cane plant sometimes referred to as “light molasses.” Cane syrup is made by crushing sugar cane to extract the juice, which is then treated with chemicals to remove the impurities, and then boiled. The syrup is processed to allow the “cropping out” of the sugar crystals. The technique is progressive so that the first syrup produced, molasses, can yield an additional crop of crystals, brown sugar. The syrups derived from sugar cane vary in color from light brown to almost black and can be blended from different varieties of cane. Cane syrup is frequently substituted for maple syrup and molasses in Cajun and Creole preparations.
Chaudin: A traditional Cajun dish typically prepared during a boucherie. Similar to haggis from Scotland, chaudin is made with seasoned ground pork, combined with vegetables and rice, and sewn into the stomach of the pig slaughtered during the boucherie. The chaudin is baked or steamed for several hours. While the chaudin cooks, the stomach shrinks causing the stuffing to compress. Chaudin is sliced and served either hot or cold.
Chicory: The root from a variety of Belgian endive, which, when mature, is dried, roasted, and ground. When mixed with coffee beans and brewed, chicory imparts a bittersweet, somewhat nutty flavor to the coffee. The addition of chicory to coffee was started by Napoleon’s troops who used the chicory to stretch their dwindling supply of coffee beans. The first French settlers of the region brought this coffee-making tradition to Louisiana. Chicory is also added to warm milk and served after dinner as a sleep inducer. It is also frequently added to gravies, soups, and dark breads to add an element of richness and color.
Crab and Shrimp Boil: A bouquet garni of spices used for cooking seafood. It is packaged and sold in New Orleans in netted bags or in concentrated liquid form. Crab or shrimp boil is used to flavor the water in which crabs, shrimp, or crawfish are boiled.
Cracklings: A Cajun specialty that is typically prepared during a boucherie. Cracklings are small pieces of pork skin, which are fried and seasoned, and eaten as a snack.
Crawfish: Sometimes referred to as “mudbugs” or “crawdads,” this small fresh water crustacean is similar in appearance to a miniature lobster. Freshwater crawfish are frequently confused with their saltwater cousins, the crayfish. All of the edible meat from crawfish comes from the tail, as the claws and legs are too small to get any significant amount of meat. Crawfish are found in the region’s swamps, ditches, bayous, lakes, and ponds and are generally available from December through May. Due to the small quantity of meat contained within the tail section, one should cook 7 pounds of crawfish to yield 1 pound of meat. For a seafood boil a typical person will consume between 4-5 pounds of whole crawfish. Crawfish are best cooked in boiling salted water flavored with spices and herbs.
Creole Cream Cheese: A version of the French “fromage blanc,” or fresh white cheese, frequently found in markets and restaurants in Louisiana. This fresh-made cream cheese is rarely found outside of Louisiana. It is said that a certain type of beneficial bacteria used to make Creole cream cheese is indigenous to the region and the results cannot be duplicated elsewhere . Creole cream cheese is eaten as a snack or served with any meal. The cream cheese is frequently eaten with sugar and strawberries or plain—just seasoned with some salt and pepper.
Creole Mustard: A distinctive, locally made mustard that uses spicier and darker mustard seeds than other mustards that are marinated in vinegar before preparation of the mustard. Creole mustard is quite pungent and is similar to horseradish. It is frequently used in remoulade sauce and served with ham and po boy sandwiches.
Creole Tomatoes: A locally grown tomato that has a very thin skin, low acidity level, and an extremely high juice content. When vine-ripened, Creole tomatoes are well known for their sweet aroma and unique taste. The sweet taste of the Creole tomato is attributed to Louisiana’s fertile soil and humid air. The Creole tomato is typically in season between June and August. However, due to their delicate nature they are rarely shipped outside of the region. Creole tomatoes should never be stored under refrigeration, as the cold temperature will diminish their natural sweet flavor.
Crescent City Breakfast: The name given to the typical New Orleans breakfast which includes beignets and Café au Lait. As many of the restaurants and cafes in New Orleans are open 24 hours a day, it is not uncommon to see people eating a crescent city breakfast at any hour of the day or night. One famous restaurant where the crescent city breakfast is still served is the Café du Monde in the French Quarter.
Dirty Rice: A Creole rice dish much better known in New Orleans than in the rest of Louisiana. Dirty rice gets its name from the livers and giblets that are added to the rice preparation, which results in very dark-colored rice. Dirty rice typically has diced celery, onions and peppers—the hole trinity—included in the recipe.
Eggs Hussard: A brunch dish inspired by Eggs Benedict that was created at Brennan’s, a New Orleans restaurant. Eggs Hussard tops toasted English muffins with sliced Canadian back bacon, Marchand de Vin sauce, followed by poached eggs that are then topped with cayenne pepper-flavored hollandaise sauce. Eggs Hussard is typically served with grilled tomatoes.
Étouffée: A French word meaning to smother or braise. In Louisiana cooking, étouffée is generally a preparation made with crawfish, crab, or shrimp, which is slowly cooked in a thick sauce made with seafood stock, tomatoes, onions, celery, peppers, and seasonings. Étouffée is typically served over rice with some hot pepper sauce. Although étouffée is a Creole innovation, it is quite common in Cajun country as well.
Filé powder: A powder with thickening properties discovered by the Choctaw tribe of Native Americans. Filé powder is made from sassafras leaves, which are dried, ground, and passed through a sieve. Filé powder is commonly used as an aromatic thickening agent for gumbos.
Frogs: Of the many species of frogs indigenous to the Louisiana region. The “Creole Frog,” commonly referred to as the bullfrog, is the most frequently eaten in the region. Typically, the legs are the best cut of frog for eating and are usually broiled, fried, or sautéed.
Gateau de Sirop: A traditional spice cake found all over Louisiana. Gateau de Sirop is typically sweetened with cane syrup, topped with icing made from brown sugar, and garnished with pecan nuts.
Grillades: Thinly sliced pieces of fresh pork or veal that are pan-fried and cooked with sliced onions, peppers, celery, and tomatoes. The origins of grillades are really not known, but are said to have been started during the traditional boucherie. Grillades were cooked in cast iron pans over fires and were served all day long with grits or rice. Today, grillades are frequently served with grits for brunch at many of Louisiana’s restaurants.
Gumbo: A type of hearty soup or stew frequently served in the Louisiana region. It is said that gumbo is a Louisiana version of the French fish soup called bouillabaisse and was first made by the French settlers using local fish and seafood. Over time, the dish evolved with the addition of hot peppers, contributed by the Spanish settlers, okra, contributed by the Africans, and filé powder, contributed by the Native Americans. The term gumbo is derived from an African word, “gombo,” meaning okra. Okra is a vegetable that is used to prepare gumbo and acts as one of the thickening agent for the dish. Gumbo blends and balances all of the varied ethnic influences that have shaped present-day Louisiana cooking—the Spanish love of rice and spices, the southern fondness for okra, the French technique of making roux, and the Caribbean art for combining seasonings. In New Orleans and Southeastern Louisiana tomatoes are added and cooked in the pot with the gumbo. In southwestern Louisiana, the favorite is called Gumbo Ya Ya, which is a chicken and andouille sausage gumbo that is thickened with only roux—no okra or tomatoes. Gumbo is traditionally served with or over rice.
Hogs Head Cheese: A traditional Cajun dish typically prepared during a boucherie. Hogs head cheese follows the French tradition of Fromage de Tête au Cochon, where a hog’s head, feet, and shoulders are slow-cooked all day. Once the meat has fallen from the bones, it is collected, chopped, and mixed with herbs and spices. The mixture is placed in a form and refrigerated where the natural gelatin extracted by the cooking process congeals the mold.
The Holy Trinity: The name given to a mirepoix-style combination of vegetables and includes onions, green bell peppers, and celery. This triad of vegetables is used in most Cajun and Creole preparations.
Jambalaya: A rice dish derived from the Spanish dish paella, which Spanish settlers brought with them to Louisiana in the early 1700’s. The Spanish immigrants adapted their recipe to the products that were indigenous to the region. Oysters and crawfish replaced the clams and mussels and Andouille sausage replaced the ham. Originally the dish was named “jambon a la yaya” after the African name for rice—yaya. Over the years jambalaya has evolved into one of America’s most famous and popular rice dishes and is made today with whatever products that are available. However, pork, chicken, and andouille sausage are the most frequently used ingredients.
King’s Cake: A cake traditionally served in the New Orleans area during the Mardi Gras celebration. King’s cake is a brioche ring that is filled with a mixture made from nuts and topped with icing in the colors of Mardi Gras—purple, green, and gold. Typically, a small prize is hidden inside the cake. The person who finds the prize in their portion is expected to make a donation to charity. This tradition dates back to medieval Europe where the King’s cake was served on the 6th of January (King’s Day or Twelfth Night) and had gold coins hidden inside. Today, the King’s cake is also used to select the King and Queen of the Mardi Gras celebration.
Louisiana Strawberries: Very small, sweet, red strawberries with a very distinctive flavor. These indigenous strawberries have a very short growing season and are typically available only in the months of March and April. Louisiana strawberries come primarily from the area surrounding the town of Ponchatoula. The annual production fills approximately 200 railroad cars. Louisiana strawberries are frequently shipped out of the state, however, and are still somewhat difficult to obtain.
Mirliton: A light-green, pear-shaped vegetable also referred to as chayote in other regions of America. The Mirliton came to Louisiana with settlers and slaves from the West Indies and has a flavor similar to squash. Mirliton is usually available from August through November and can be stored under refrigeration for up to a month. It can be prepared using a variety of cooking techniques; however, mirliton stuffed with breadcrumbs and seafood is among the most popular preparations.
Mock Turtle Soup: A preparation of turtle soup made without actually using turtle meat. (see turtle)
Moussa: A cornmeal mush frequently used as a substitute for rice. In the 1800’s, when rice was not readily available in the state of Louisiana, gumbo was served over moussa.
Muffuletta: A sandwich common to New Orleans and Louisiana that is made by slicing a round loaf of Italian bread horizontally and stuffing it with a variety of meats or seafood. The muffuletta is dressed with a tangy salad made from green and black olives and then sliced into quarters. Muffuletta sandwiches were developed in the early 1900’s by Italian grocers who sold a lunch plate with bread, assorted meats and cheeses, and a zesty olive salad. One day, a worker who bought the lunch plate, sliced the bread in half and piled all of the ingredients into it creating a huge sandwich. Muffuletta is the Sicilian name for a loaf of bread topped with sesame seeds that was typically served with the lunch plate the grocers sold. When the grocers started selling the sandwiches, they wrapped them in the paper that the bread came in, which was labeled muffuletta, and the sandwiches in turn began to be called by the same name.
Okra: A green bullet-shaped vegetable with ridges and one end that is tapered. Okra seeds were claimed to have first been brought to Louisiana, while hidden in the hair of Congolese slaves, in the early 1700s. The shortened name used by the African slaves for this vegetable was “gombo.” When cooked, the white okra seeds produce a glutinous substance that acts as a natural thickening agent. The famous Louisiana dish gumbo naturally gets its name from this African word for okra. When okra is in season, they generally replace filé powder as the thickening agent in gumbo.
Pecan Pralines: A candy invented by Marechal du Plessis Praslin in 17th century France. The confection was originally made with almonds and was called “amande rissolée dans le sucre,” and is essentially one or two nuts that are coated with butter and caramelized sugar and left to harden into a candy. When the French arrived in Louisiana, they substituted the local pecan for the almonds called for in the recipe. Pecan Pralines are typically served in the New Orleans area after dinner with a cup of coffee.
Po Boy: Noted as the most popular sandwich in Louisiana. The Po Boy is related to similar sandwiches from other regions of America that go under the names hoagies, grinders, submarines, and heroes. The po boy was created in the late nineteenth century by Madame Begue, who sold the sandwiches at her stall at the French Market. She would split a loaf of French bread, fill it with seafood or meat, and dress the sandwich with lettuce, tomatoes, butter, and mayonnaise. It is said that the name po boy came from the unemployed men who wandered the French Market looking for work and would beg her to “please give a sandwich to a po boy.”
Popcorn Rice: Also referred to as wild pecan rice. This is long-grain rice, which is milled, leaving most of the bran layer on. Popcorn rice is only grown in the parish (county) of New Iberia. This variety of rice has nothing in common with either wild rice or pecans, but has a unique taste and distinctive nutty aroma when cooked.
Providence Rice: A term used to describe homegrown rice that has been cultivated in the local ponds and swamps of the region for over 250 years. The reference to “providence” comes from the saying “it’s up to the providence or grace of God” to see the rice harvested. Louisiana is America’s third largest rice producing state next to California and Arkansas and its population consumes more rice than any other state. Southwestern Louisiana grows over eighty percent of the state’s rice crop. The regional preference in the area is for medium-grain white rice with a high gluten content. The remainder of Louisiana prefers long-grain or extra long-grain rice.
Ramos Gin Fizz: An alcoholic beverage named after Henry Ramos of the Imperial Cabinet Saloon in New Orleans. Although Ramos did not invent the cocktail, he brought the drink to its height of popularity. Orange flower water, a derivative of the orange tree blossom, is essential in making an authentic Ramos Gin Fizz.
Ratafias: A cordial made from flowers, nuts, berries, or other fruits, which are steeped in brandy. Ratafias were a French custom that was brought to Louisiana by the French settlers who used their finest brandy to make the cordials. The steeping time varies depending on what type of fruit, nuts, or flowers is being used, but generally takes about one month. While steeping, ratafias should be sealed tightly in bottles and stored in a dry, cool place.
Red Beans and Rice: This dish was typically served on Mondays. As folklore would have it, Monday was always laundry day for the homemakers. A pot of red beans and rice could be left to simmer on the stove for many hours and usually when the laundry was done, so were the red beans and rice. Others say that the dish was served on Mondays to make good use of the ham bone left from Sunday’s dinner. Still others say that the “red and white,” as the dish is called, allows for the alcohol consumed over the weekend to be absorbed by the red beans and rice. Red beans are not a unique species of dried bean—just red kidney beans cooked in the Louisiana tradition.
Remoulade Sauce: A spicy sauce commonly served with seafood. Louisiana remoulade is a mayonnaise-based sauce flavored with Creole mustard, finely diced vegetables, and seasoned with herbs and spices. There are a number of regional recipes for remoulade. Each chef adds his or her own signature flavors through the selection of condiments and seasonings added to the sauce’s mayonnaise base.
Root Beer: A non-alcoholic soft drink created by a chemist named Ed Barq in 1898. Barq, who previously worked in France as a chemist, used his expertise in creating flavors he eventually used to make his soft drink. Root beer became very popular in the gulf coast region as it went well with many of the local dishes such as Po Boys, red beans and rice, and fried seafood. A southern tradition is to consume a handful of peanuts while drinking a root beer. Today, the people of New Orleans drink twice as much root beer as any other Americans.
Roux: A classical French thickening agent made by combining equal parts of flour and butter that is cooked prior to use. The cooking process will eventually color the roux, which begins as a white roux, then changes to blond roux and is followed by brown or dark roux depending on the cooking time. In Creole cuisine, roux is typically cooked to the brown to dark stages and used to thicken dishes like gumbos and stews. Sometimes animal fats such as bacon or duck are substituted for the butter for a lighter flavor. In Cajun cuisine, roux is usually made with vegetable oil or animal fat instead of butter and cooked to a dark caramel color. The dark rouxs used in Cajun and Creole cuisines help to provide richness and depth of flavor to the dishes.
Sazerac: A New Orleans saloon that opened in 1852 and was named after the famous French Cognac. The popularity of the drinking establishment was attributed to a cocktail called the Sazerac that contained bitters, sugar, lemon, and absinthe. When absinthe was banned, a liqueur called Herbsainte, also referred to as “the spirit of New Orleans,” was used in its place to make the cocktail.
Seafood Boil: A common event in Louisiana and the Mississippi Gulf Coast where crab, shrimp, and/or crawfish are boiled in a deep pot with herbs and spices. The herbs and spices should be tied inside a cheesecloth sack and include bay leaves, allspice, cloves, mustard seeds, coriander seeds, dill seeds, and pepper. Seafood boils are typically held outdoors where the seafood is eaten on tabletops lined with newspapers. Once the seafood has been consumed, the newspapers, with the shells and all, is rolled up and discarded.
Sugar Cane: A type of giant, perennial grass, which grows up to six feet in height and is one of the largest cash crops in Louisiana. Sugar cane first came to Louisiana in the mid-1700’s from the West Indies and is used primarily to make molasses, white and brown sugar, and cane syrup, a sweetening agent frequently used in Cajun and Creole recipes. (see cane syrup)
Sweet Potatoes: Commonly referred to in the region as a “Louisiana yam.” However, they are not yams at all. They are simply called yams by the locals to help in differentiating the tubers from other varieties of sweet potatoes. This variety of sweet potato was discovered in the early 1700’s by the Dutch explorer Antoine Simon Le Page du Pratz, who represented France at the time. Louisiana yams should not be refrigerated but kept in a warm, dry place. They store well for up to four weeks and are best prepared by baking, boiling, frying, sautéing, or preparing them candied. Candied yams are a favorite among the locals.
Tabasco Sauce: One of the most famous hot pepper sauces, currently available in over 100 countries. Tabasco sauce was originated over 130 years ago by New Orleans banker Edward McIlhenny, who was given a gift of pepper seeds by a friend returning from a trip to Mexico. During the Civil War, the McIlhenny’s were forced to abandon their home in Louisiana. Upon their return after the war, they discovered everything destroyed except for the hearty pepper plants that they planted before they departed. In 1868, McIlhenny began to experiment with the fruits of the plants and eventually invented a flavorful sauce made by mashing the peppers with salt, storing the mash in a crock for 30 days, then adding French wine vinegar and storing for an additional 30 days. The resulting sauce was an immediate success. Although the methods and procedures for making Tabasco sauce have evolved, the sauce still only contains 3 ingredients, peppers, salt, and vinegar. The name Tabasco is a Mexican term meaning “land where soil is humid.” One small bottle of Tabasco sauce contains 720 drops. Tabasco sauce is best used in a recipe after the food is removed from the heat.
Tasso: A chunk of pork that is liberally seasoned with filé powder, garlic, and red pepper. Tasso is cured and smoked for 2-3 days and used as a flavoring agent for a variety of other preparations. Tasso is rarely eaten on its own due to its heavy salt and smoke flavor. Tasso is typically made at home from a piece of meat left over from a traditional boucherie.
Turtles: Up until the middle of the 1900’s there were abundant varieties of turtles available in the Louisiana region, and their meat was commonly sold at stalls in New Orleans’s French Market. Due to their diminishing population, turtle meat is now only available through farm-raised sources. Turtle was most frequently used to prepare soup, which was made as a clear broth, a cream soup, or thick like a stew. The fat from female turtles has long been considered a delicacy. Today, Mock Turtle Soup is frequently prepared and substitutes veal, duck, or beef instead of the hard-to-find turtle meat.
Wild Pecan Rice: (see popcorn rice)
Menus from Cajun and Creole Cuisine
Menu One
White Bean Soup
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Cajun Fish Beignets, Coleslaw and Cajun Red Remoulade Sauce
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Paneéd Chicken and Fettuccini in Cream Sauce
Creole Collard Greens
Sautéed Tomatoes
Menu Two
Creole Onion Soup
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Oysters Rockefeller
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Shrimp and Chicken Etoufeé
Vegetable Bundles
Dirty Rice
Fried Okra
Menu Three
Chicken and Andouille Sausage Gumbo or Shrimp Bisque
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Red Beans and Rice
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Braised Beef Daube
Baked Cheese Grits
Sugarsnap Peas
Glazed Carrots